Cut Throat Razor

If you want to view our range of brand-new cutthroat razors click here.

 

A cut throat razor has a single straight blade that is attached to a handle by a hinge or pin and that is stored by folding it edge-first into a slot in the handle of the razor.This method of shaving with a cut throat razor or straight razor is the most traditional and argued by some shaving traditionalists as the only way to shave.

The straight-edge razor was also called the cutthroat razor because it was dangerous enough to cut a man's throat.

History of the Cut Throat Razor

As far back as the civilisations of Rome and Greece used iron blades with a long handle and developed the shape of the cutthroat razor which was the only pratical razor until the 19th century. With improvements in steel manufacture came cut throat razor blades that were really sharp and capable of being re-sharpened.

Advances in razor technology changed shaving habits in the 20th century. In 1900, most men were either shaved by the local barber (your trusted confidante, wielding a cut throat razor), or periodically at home when required, rather than regularly. The barber's better-off customers would have personal sets of seven cut throat razors, labelled 'Sunday' to 'Saturday'. Today, nearly all men shave everyday in their own homes, using a wide variety of equipment.

Cutthroat razor must be used with extreme caution. Executive Shaving would be very pleased to give advice on using the cutthroat razor before purchase.

Straight Razor Material

In general, the blades of straight razors are made of steel, the more recent razors have blades made from stainless steel. The manufacturers markings are often found engraved or etched on the blades which may include the model.

The handles of straight razors are made from all sorts of different materials, including wood, rubber, horn, ivory, bakelite, vegetable ivory, and metal. Inlays and additions can be of mother of pearl, silver, copper, ivory, wood, tortoiseshell.

How do I look after the cutthroat razor?

To maintain a straight razor and ensure its longevity, proper care is crucial. Stainless steel straight razors are typically easier to care for, while other types require rinsing with clear water and thorough drying after each use.

 

If you plan to store the razor for an extended period without using it, it's advisable to apply a light layer of oil to the blade. Additionally, avoid storing the razor in a damp or poorly ventilated environment.

 

There is no universally accepted guideline for stropping (sharpening) straight razors. In many cases, gently running the razor over the pad of your thumb can be sufficient, especially if it hasn’t been used for several days.

 

Traditional wet shavers understand that the cutting edge of the blade, or "facet," can become temporarily altered during use but returns to its original position afterward. However, the fine edge will eventually wear down, so it's important to invest in a suitable strop when necessary.

How do I whet the razor with the strop?

When sharpening flat blades, they are typically whetted on a suspended strop, often referred to as velvet knives. In contrast, half or full concave blades require a hanging strop made from fine cowhide or extremely supple Russian leather. This strop may include a turning device for hanging or have a hemp hose on the back, which helps align the "fin" of the blade away from the razor.

 

If needed, the leather side of the strop can be treated with a very thin layer of fine abrasive paste (often called red paste) and, for final polishing on a separate strop, with polishing paste (also known as strop paste). This paste should be worked in using the ball of your thumb.

 

Stropping should be done at a flat angle, with the back of the razor resting on the strop. The razor is then drawn away from the body. After that, it should be turned over onto its back and drawn back in towards the body. If you change the stropping direction without flipping the razor, it can cause the blade to become rounded, which will compromise its cutting ability. In such cases, resharpening is necessary.

 

Typically, straight razors are pre-whetted at the factory for immediate use (hand-whetting on leather). If you possess a suitable strop, keep in mind that the razor needs to "rest" after use. After carefully rinsing and drying the razor, it should not be used again for at least 24 to 48 hours, as the fine "fin" on the cutting edge takes time to realign. Stropping too soon—or incorrectly moving the razor back and forth without flipping it—can break off the necessary fin, leading to a less effective shave. Generally, you can achieve between six and fifteen shaves without needing to strop in between.When sharpening flat blades, they are typically whetted on a suspended strop, often referred to as velvet knives. In contrast, half or full concave blades require a hanging strop made from fine cowhide or extremely supple Russian leather. This strop may include a turning device for hanging or have a hemp hose on the back, which helps align the "fin" of the blade away from the razor.

 

If needed, the leather side of the strop can be treated with a very thin layer of fine abrasive paste (often called red paste) and, for final polishing on a separate strop, with polishing paste (also known as strop paste). This paste should be worked in using the ball of your thumb.

 

Stropping should be done at a flat angle, with the back of the razor resting on the strop. The razor is then drawn away from the body. After that, it should be turned over onto its back and drawn back in towards the body. If you change the stropping direction without flipping the razor, it can cause the blade to become rounded, which will compromise its cutting ability. In such cases, resharpening is necessary.

 

Typically, straight razors are pre-whetted at the factory for immediate use (hand-whetting on leather). If you possess a suitable strop, keep in mind that the razor needs to "rest" after use. After carefully rinsing and drying the razor, it should not be used again for at least 24 to 48 hours, as the fine "fin" on the cutting edge takes time to realign. Stropping too soon—or incorrectly moving the razor back and forth without flipping it—can break off the necessary fin, leading to a less effective shave. Generally, you can achieve between six and fifteen shaves without needing to strop in between.When sharpening flat blades, they are typically whetted on a suspended strop, often referred to as velvet knives. In contrast, half or full concave blades require a hanging strop made from fine cowhide or extremely supple Russian leather. This strop may include a turning device for hanging or have a hemp hose on the back, which helps align the "fin" of the blade away from the razor.

 

If needed, the leather side of the strop can be treated with a very thin layer of fine abrasive paste (often called red paste) and, for final polishing on a separate strop, with polishing paste (also known as strop paste). This paste should be worked in using the ball of your thumb.

 

Stropping should be done at a flat angle, with the back of the razor resting on the strop. The razor is then drawn away from the body. After that, it should be turned over onto its back and drawn back in towards the body. If you change the stropping direction without flipping the razor, it can cause the blade to become rounded, which will compromise its cutting ability. In such cases, resharpening is necessary.

 

Typically, straight razors are pre-whetted at the factory for immediate use (hand-whetting on leather). If you possess a suitable strop, keep in mind that the razor needs to "rest" after use. After carefully rinsing and drying the razor, it should not be used again for at least 24 to 48 hours, as the fine "fin" on the cutting edge takes time to realign. Stropping too soon—or incorrectly moving the razor back and forth without flipping it—can break off the necessary fin, leading to a less effective shave. Generally, you can achieve between six and fifteen shaves without needing to strop in between.

How do I shave with the straight razor

A beginner should start by shaving the smooth and uncomplicated areas of the face. To do this, hold the open straight razor with your thumb and three fingers, ensuring that the blade points away from your face.

 

Before shaving, lather the skin with good shaving soap to make it supple. Tighten the skin, and then move the straight razor at an angle of approximately 30°. First, shave in the direction of hair growth, and then against it. If the blade is held too flat, it may tug at the stubble; if held too upright, it could cut the skin.

 

Always move the razor in the direction of the cutting edge and avoid horizontal movements, as this can lead to injury. Draw the blade evenly across the skin, angling it slightly more upright at corners, dimples, and the upper lip.

 

If the razor becomes damaged from being dropped or improperly stored, do not use it further. Stropping will not help; it must be resharpened and whetted by a professional.

What sort of steel is most suitable for straight razors

Good straight razors are typically made from standard steels with a carbon content of 0.6% or higher. These steels are processed to achieve optimal hardness, elasticity, and resistance to wear through careful tempering and treatment. One advantage of using stainless steel grades is that they require less maintenance.

Other Tips

In general, the best environment in which to store straight razors is well-ventilated, room temperature (72F or 20C), and neither too dry, nor too damp.

It is advisable to keep straight razors out of water and away from liquids as much as possible - both because water will encourage the iron-based blades to rust, and also because water can cause serious damage to many handle materials. Cleaning straight razors with bleach, ammonia or detergents is discouraged, as these substances can also cause damage.

The Blade: Metal polishes, such as Brasso, Silvo, or Autosol should never be used on the blade of a straight razor. As well as damaging the surface, they can leave polish residues which are both unattractive, and can be harmful to the blade and handle. Instead use Muhle razor maintenance oil to protect the blade from corrosion.

If the blade is exceptionally dull or nicked, the use of a sharpening stone is recommended. A leather razor strop can be used to maintain a keen edge. You know you're getting close when you can slice a piece of paper with your razor. Next, clean the entire surface of the blade with a Q-tip dampened with either ethyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol. This will help degrease the blade of the straight razor. Then, apply a thin coat of light mineral oil to the blade; let it sit for a shortwhile (10 minutes, or so), and then wipe the excess oil off using a clean, dry cloth. This oil coating will help prevent any further rusting.

If you use your straight razor, use rubbing alcohol to remove the oil before use, and again after use to clean the blade. Use mineral oil to re-oil the blade after use, as well as after sharpening. Be careful not to get any alcohol or oil on the handle.

 

View our complete range of Strops, Strop Paste and Honing Stones by clicking here.